Published November 09, 2009 01:10 am - Whether white or pink, the light, sweet, fruity taste of Catawba wine is a regional favorite, executive director of Ohio Wine Producers' Association Donniella Winchell said.
Catawba is a delicate, popular grape, Winchell says
By MARGIE TRAX PAGE - Staff Writer - mtrax@starbeacon.com Star Beacon
Whether white or pink, the light, sweet, fruity taste of Catawba wine is a regional favorite, executive director of Ohio Wine Producers' Association Donniella Winchell said.
What is the story behind this delicate grape that was so devastated by a hard spring frost this year?
“Catawba is a member of the labrusca family of grapes, and are considered ‘native American’ (including other labruscas like concord, Niagara and Delaware).
Unlike the French-American hybrids (vidal blanc, chambourcin) and vinifera (European varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir) which have multiple buds, the labruscas have only a single primary bud,” Winchell said.
The grapes are also particularly sensitive to ozone pollution, she said.
“When we get a hard freeze, the crop is diminished or lost for the entire season. The hybrids and vinifera have secondary and tertiary buds so even after a frost, growers usually get a crop, albeit it is often smaller,” she said.
Winchell said Catawba is a varietal — a pink grape that can be made into a white Catawba wine when the juice is pressed and immediately removed from the skins, or a pink Catawba wine when the color comes from the skin contact during fermentation.
Winchell said Catawba lovers will have to search for their favorite vino, but would likely enjoy other labrusca varieties including Concords, Niagaras and Delawares.
“These grapes are also in somewhat short supply, but since they are generally less popular, there should be more supply available,” she said.
Other Catawba substitutes include vidals and Rieslings, she said, although they do not have the characteristic ‘grapey’ aroma.
“But they have a light and fruity as well as in a soft, sweet style,” she said.
Winchell said Catawba has a long history in Ohio, starting when Nicolas Longworth created
a sparkling Pink Catawba in the 1860’s.
“The impact of the Catawba wine has been huge,” she said. “Even in this day when our focus on vinifera as ‘premium’ varietals, many wineries still note the majority of their sales come from the various labruscas.”
Labruscas are most noted for their 'grapey' aromas and flavors as distinguished from ‘fruity’ aromas and flavors of vinifera and hybrids,” Winchell said. “It is typically in season from September to November and can be used in wines, juice, jams and jellies.”
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